There was a study published recently that looked at two different types of traveling. The first was your typical American vacation - the type that I grew up with. Somewhere between 7-14 days, typically in the summer, where a family tries to capture enough activity, relaxation and memories to last until the following year. The second group stemmed from a more European style of vacationing. Short trips every few months that very in length and style (sometimes relaxing, or activity based, or maybe to meet up with someone).

You likely wouldn’t be surprised to find out that the style of several short trips, spread over time, proved to be less stressful, more memorable, cheaper, and generally proved to be more enjoyable.

I’ve never really had the opportunity to travel like that. I was lucky enough to be in a family that could take trips at all; so it never occurred there was an alternative. But the more time we spend in Europe the more we realize the alternative is the norm here. It’s not only the norm, work-life is designed to support it.

It’s standard for all employees to have a min of 24 vacation days - often more like 28-32. Spring and summer are littered with 3 and 4 days weekends; while the culture and infrastructure encourage escape. Typical watercooler conversation is all about where someone has recently been or where someone else is headed to next. Tips and tricks are shared, and on your return, people want to know how it was and what you did.

Easter weekend is the start of several bank holidays in Germany and the unofficial beginning of travel season in Europe. Last year at this time we headed out on our first adventure to Copenhagen. This year we decided to explore Dresden.

- Day 1 -

Dresden is the largest city in eastern Germany and the capital of Saxony. Often referred to as “The Jewel Box,” the city’s Baroque and Rococo architecture is stunning. The city first appeared in historical writings in the 12th century as a Slavic town named Drežďany. It was renamed Antiqua Dresdin by 1350, and later referred to as Altendresden. The central story of Dresden took shape in the early 18th century under King Augustus II the Strong and Augustus III. During their extensive reigns, most of the major landmarks were built and the city became a mecca for art collections and museums. The 19th century brought forth an economic boom as the city became a hub for manufacturing, processing and banking.

During WWII the city was mostly spared until the last days of the war when it was subject to a major Allied bombing campaign. During the 3 day campaign US and UK planes dropped more than 3,900 tons of ordnance killing an estimated 25k people (mostly civilians). This would be a point of controversy for the next 5 decades and help fuel the animosity of the DDR.

On Friday we headed out to catch our train for Dresden. The ride is just under 2 hours and very enjoyable. We checked into the hotel and set out to explore the city.

Our hotel was right on the river and the weather was perfect for some fun in the sun so we just hung out for a bit on the grass taking in the view.

Over the bridge is Old Town - about 6.5㎢ [1,600k acres] of dense history and sights to see. The first thing that is striking is how well the city was rebuilt and how beautiful it is. Many of the buildings were meticulously rebuilt using the same stones that laid in dormant piles of rubble until the wall came down in ‘89.

We wandered around town taking in the beautiful sights and before too long it was time for lunch. With the warm weather starting to emerge, the Dresden Beer Garten scene was taking shape.

Often referred to as the “Balcony of Europe,” the Brühl Terrace is home to several cafes, Beer Gartens, and places to take in the view. We found a great spot and sat down to enjoy the sights.

Mike and Claudia (Doreen’s folks), have been to Dresden many times and were full of great advice on what to see. On their short list was The Royal Palace, Opera House, and Zwinger museum. Luckily, all 3 were a stones throw away from where we had lunch.

The Royal Palace was built in the late 15th century and constructed over an older Medieval castle that had mostly burned down in a great fire. The palace housed the royal treasure and to this day has some of the most spectacular ornaments created in its "Green Vault." When the palace was destroyed in ‘45, it was rebuilt in the Renaissance style while preserving as much of the medeavil skeleton as possible.

The Semper Opera House and Theaterplatz was originally constructed in 1838-41 by Gottfried Semper. Semper was an interesting and notable person of history. His famous book, *The Four Elements of Architecture*, is still a must read for architecture students. However, that’s not the most interesting aspect of his legacy. After completing the Opera House in 1841 he became deeply involved in the political landscape of the region. Between 1848-49 Saxony saw multiple revolutions and uprisings - the most famous taking place on May 3rd, 1849 in Dresden.

In the year leading up to the revolt, Germany was trying to unite itself. Revolutions had been taking place in all major areas but centered in Frankfurt where there was a new, democratically elected, National Assembly. Elections had taken place across Germany and the elected leaders were trying to adopt a new constitutional monarchy. The constitution was never ratified because it depended on the corporation of the existing monarchy. This led many to revolt.

Dresden was home to many famous liberal leaning artists who disagreed with the decision to disband the assembly and this eventually resulted in the uprising on May 3rd, 1849. Semper and his famous friend, composer Richard Wagner, took part in blockading streets and making grenades to throw at the incoming Prussian and Saxon troops ordered to disband the assembly. Both escaped arrest but Semper lived in exile for the rest of his life.

In 1869 the Opera house burnt down and the public urged King John to commission Semper for the new building. Reluctantly, the king commissioned Semper but never lifted the warrant for his arrest. Semper sent his son to oversee the construction as he would’ve assuredly been arrested and put to death had he returned.

Semper died in May of 1879 during a visit to Rome. He never saw the building that would ultimately make him famous. Sometimes it’s easy to look at an old building in Europe and dismiss the story behind its creation. There are so many wonderful feats of architecture that we tend to gravitate to the famous stories of history.

Semper was an interesting guy, aside from his handmade grenade skills, he also had a hand in the construction of many buildings in Dresden including the next spot on our list, Zwinger Gallery.

Zwinger [hall in the open air] was a world famous baroque structure that was designed for Augustus the Strong at the start of the 18th century. The building was originally planned to be an orangerie (an elaborate conservatory or green house) but ended up being home to some of the worlds most fantastic pieces or art.

The Georgian era had a profound effect on this area of the world. Many decedents to the English king ended up in the court or married to many of the German, French and Italian monarchs.

Upon his return from a similar tour of France and Italy taken by Johann Friedrich von Eosander (architect of Charlottenburg Palace), Augustus the Strong knew what he wanted the building to house. He wanted a grand library and gallery of the worlds greatest art.

During our visit to the Prussian palace Charlottenburg, we learned Queen Sophie Charlotte (sister to George I) had an immense collection of porcelain. She was also a member of the House of Hohenzollern due to her marriage to Friedrich I - the same royal family that ruled Saxony for many years prior to the House of Wettin. So, it’s not a coincidence the largest collection of East Asian and Meissen porcelain are housed at Zwinger. Both the Hohenzollern and Wettin houses had an affliction for the beautifully carved works.

The last stop on our Old Town tour for the day was the Clock Tower. The tower is actually a part of the expansive Royal Palace grounds but disconnected due to some construction.

The entire clock is a mechanical, power free, system that has been refurbished to mimic the original design. The pendulums and gears are situated about halfway up the tower due to the weight and narrowing design of the structure.

The view from the top was beautiful and we had the observation deck all to ourselves - a rare occurrence on a holiday weekend.

Our day came to a close with an alfresco dinner at a neighboring Beer Garten and a walk alongside the Elbe. Spring time in Germany feels more like Summer in California with the sun setting well after 8pm.

- Day 2 -

On Saturday we covered almost 37km [23 miles] on foot and bike checking out Dresden. Doreen did a great job of organizing what to see, and when to see it, so we could cover as much ground as possible.

First up was Dresden’s most famous monument, The Frauenkirche [The Women’s Church] also referred to as The Stone Bell due to its massive stone dome - one of the largest in Europe. This magnificent structure was built over 17 years and first opened in 1743. The church that first stood on this ground was of Catholic origin. During the reformation the citizenry converted to Protestantism and built this structure as a symbol of their will to remain Protestant in Lue of the Saxon king’s decision to remain Catholic.

It stood for over 200 years as an example of Protestant sacred architecture (the fundamental basis of what is now known as Christian architecture); when it was burned to the ground in the great firestorm after the infamous bombing of '45. As a part of German reunification, the church was rebuilt starting in ‘94 and opend completly in '05. For 45 years the rubble of the old church laied in the city centre. The DDR's refusal to rebuild the church would ironically ended up saving it's legacy. It took a massive team of historians, artists, theologians and engineers to rise the church from the ashes. Piece by piece they combed through the rubble and put Frauenkirche back together like a sandstone puzzle.

It’s hard to overestimate how magnificent this church is. Walking through the modest archway, light coming from all parts of the dome uncovers a massive altar and organ. The beauty of the carvings and the knowledge of the effort and artistry that went into making this a reality is extraordinary - it feels heavenly.

We climbed to the top and enjoyed the gorgeous views of the city’s skyline. You can see the Elbe carve through the landscape and it becomes clear why this area was dubbed the capitol of Saxony. The strategic placement of the city, combined with easy access the Elbe, made this the perfect place for a head of state.

After we had seen every angle of the church we headed out on our bikes for a nice morning ride to our next destination, Pillnitz Palace. It’s amazing how fast you get to the countryside. The green hills and fantastic old houses provided a wonderful view as we found our way along the river eventually taking a ferry boat across to have lunch at a little family run restaurant in one of the many small villages that outlines the city.

Pillnitz Palace was built by the same architect as Zwinger on commission from Augustus the Strong in 1720. The direction was to create an oriental-style palace with a Baroque garden and English park. Although it sounds eclectic, the styles really work well together. The House of Wettin was fond of other cultures, art and style, and this is probably the best example of that fascination. You don’t need to be a student of architecture to notice the palace is different from all others in Germany. If anything it looks like something from the American Colonial era with Asian finishes and a touch of German character.

The grounds are well manicured and while we were there some of the flowers were in full bloom. If you’re into botany, the exotic collection of worldly plants could keep your eyes and nose busy for days.

The ride back to town, on the opposite riverbank, was equally beautiful. We casually cruised through some small villages and past people playing on the banks. It was especially amusing to see two middle-aged German men yelling at each other over who cut whom off on the bike path - while standing in the middle of the bike path.

A good day of activity deserved a proper German meal so we headed out to a local hot spot. Known for their German delicacies, Doreen went for the Sour Braten and Logan for the noodles. The cool part about this place isn’t the food or the beer; it’s the home of the original bell from Frauenkirche bell tower. Recovered from the fire, and preserved for all time, it’s hung for the citizens of Dresden to come and observe. They say if you gently brush against it it’ll give you good luck.

- Day 3 -

Großer Garten [Large Garden] is a massive public park just off the City Centre. It was built in the second half of the 17th century by Elector John George III, Augustus the Strong’s father. He designed it for various “court activities” like hunting and other outdoor sport.

One modern addition to the park is a miniature train that has multiple stations and tracks running all around the ~2㎢ [1.25 miles] area. Mike (Doreen’s Father) told us that he used to ride this same train as a kid.

They have a really cool program where local kids can volunteer for shifts to help run the train. They involve the kids at every level except driving. They learn to develop a sense of purpose and leadership while keeping the tradition alive.

For lunch we stopped at another Beer Garten in the park where we feasted on some of the best wiener schnitzel we’ve ever had.

We headed to Old Town for the last stop on our Dresden adventure. There were two areas that we wanted to go back and explore in more detail: the Palace Stables & the Fürstenzug or Procession of Princes.

Tucked away in an off shoot just off the main stone gate to Old Town is the old Palace Stables. Traditionally this was where royal soldiers would train and the family’s horses were kept. The use of angles and arches was pretty cool and made for some good pictures in the afternoon light.

Our second stop was the Procession of Princes. A 102m [335ft] mural that depicts the 35 margraves, electors, dukes and kings between 1127 and 1904. It was commissioned in 1871 and finished 5 years later to celebrate the 800th anniversary of the Hour of Wettin Dynasty. The mural is unique compared to similar works in other cities. It sucks you into the House of Wettin lineage with the compelling depictions of each ruler complete with number of years in power and nickname. You quickly notice that many of them ruled for 20-30+ years but every once in a while someone would only last a few years. It made me wonder about the story behind these historical figures and has driven much of my post trip research on the area.

Dresden is a cool place with a ton of history and culture packed into a tiny plot along the river bank. Arguably, regions like Dresden are what has defined Germany since its inception in 1871. Prussia, Saxony and Bohemia were culture centers that defined a large part of not just Germany but also modern Western culture.

From the Reformation, through the Renaissance & Baroque periods, to the 2 Great Wars that were fought here; this part of the world has defined who we are as Westerners. Even today it’s playing a role as it continues to meticulously refurbish that history so that future generations don’t just read about it on a tablet - but actually see it and touch it. Dresden burnt down twice, and twice it rebuilt. In both cases it took many years and in both cases it was better than before. It’s been home to many great leaders, artists, and ideas. Dresden is a story of resilience, cultural attribution and curiosity. It was the perfect story for us to hear on the perfect holiday weekend and we can’t wait to go back.

Until Next Time,

The McNeills